Im thinking about getting one and well i was wondering what everyone thinks about them. thanks. Experiences only please. Thanks.

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2002 Mustang GT
Mods: Aftermarket Tint, K&N. Air Silencer Removal, Painted Calipers, American Thunder Flowmaster Catback, Mach 1 chin spoiler.

they r a cheap lift but the mounts on the cab will wear out in about 5-7 years(looking atthe long tearm) just make sure you get the fender covers and line extenders makes it look much mo better

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all bow down to the one who choses to shift cause i am a Crazy Gear Rower,
supported by "ares wipe when that fart becomes a,squirt there's ares wipes"

i personally love them. they are cheap, look good and last a while. my dads friend has been running a 3inch body lift for 20 yrs or so now on his 74 gmc. just remember when you add a body lift rplace the body mount bushings (aka cab mount bushings), they are fairly easy to install but are neccessay when installing on an older vehicle!

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2003 Chevy astrovan AWD LT (Loaded Turd)
1994 Ford F150 4x4 with 4 inch lift and 35's
3RD child on the way!
U.S. Army Troop "An ARMY of One"

Thanks for the info... I have a 2000 ranger and was thinking of adding a 3inch body to the already 5.5" suspension lift and maybe adding 33"s. For the gap i was either gonna get gap guards or wrap it in some black gardening material that would make it look solid. The bumper lift brackets come with the kit.

How about the handling and drive of the truck? Would it remain factory as there advertising states? Also do they require any special maintenance? Are their safety issues? Would i need longer shocks or brake lines? Longer steering column? Thanks for any help.

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2002 Mustang GT
Mods: Aftermarket Tint, K&N. Air Silencer Removal, Painted Calipers, American Thunder Flowmaster Catback, Mach 1 chin spoiler.

steering bar extende should come in a good kit brake lines no problem cause they should have coils in them by the master cylinder rider wise it seems the same but your center of gravity like always changes ride dont seem to bad schocks no caus they r not bolted to the body

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all bow down to the one who choses to shift cause i am a Crazy Gear Rower,
supported by "ares wipe when that fart becomes a,squirt there's ares wipes"

get lift brackets for the bumpers too. nothin looks worse than a 3 inch gap between the bumper and the body

chevies are the worse

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1999 F-150 AirRaid, 4.10 gears, tint, superchip, see my gallery for more.

yeah but a good kit should have them in it to i am tring to remember who my frien used it was like 250 for everything gap guards bumper brackets andall of it i will find out and post it later

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all bow down to the one who choses to shift cause i am a Crazy Gear Rower,
supported by "ares wipe when that fart becomes a,squirt there's ares wipes"

hey justin talk to the guys at offroadrangers.com. there good ppl and are very very helpful. and they might just have one in the for sale board thats a lil used and cheap

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Definite Obsession DFW chapter President
www.DefiniteObsessions.com

1986 ranger, gen 2 cab,front end and interior. bagged and 4 linked, laying tranny member( need to remove that) soon be draggin on a street near u.

i have one on my ranger and i like it...took a day and 2 people to do it easy to do. It's just the bumper brackets. And if you have accessibility to air impact wrenches get them...they make life much mo easier!

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2000 Ranger xlt - 4x4 off road package, K&N intake, flowmaster 40 series, cranked torsion bars, autometer dual pillar pod w/ gauges. Who knows what's next...sold and replaced with 99 Jeep Wrangler 4.0

ok heres the deal it took me 6 hours to do it with a friend first of all follow the instructions extend your pieces under the hood like it says you may need to increase your shifter length if its a manual, but you can do that in the end if need be, (or do like me and just take the cupholder out), second impact sockets and a cutter depending on how old the bolts are you may have to cut some out it seems that only the front ones are really hard to get out but you will need some extensions too to reach the far front studs and you have to go through a little hole to reach em, second get a ruler and a piece of white paper and measure the distance between cab and bed before you start then make it the same when you put the blocks in, also measure the distance left and right of the bed to the cab so everything aligns, third mount the front bumper higher, leave the rear and buy the gap guards for the tail, (and the wheel well gaps if you deem so) i didnt, and last, Performance ACCESORIES makes a dam good body lift comes with everything but the gap guards which you can get too, there not expensive at all, go to ROCKY MOUNTAIN SUSPENSIOn.com thye will have it there and its worth it i love mine, if you need any more help let me know and ill tell you everything i can

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"IF IT CAN BLEED, WE CAN KILL IT"