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| The full suspension lift will be the best bet in the long run...just save up till you can do it right....and throw the 3" body lift on at the same time for another $100 and be sky high
__________________ 98 xlt, dropped 3/5. 17in. CHROME Cobra wheels wrapped in 255/50/17, billet grille, dumped flowmaster 40 series, clear corners, euro tails, indiglo guages, TWEED Interior, painted interior, silver flame pinstripe, 5% Limo tint all around, K&N, Viper alarm, 60/40 to bucket conversion, 4.10 gears SOLD 10/29/03!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 2003 Dodge SRT4 ![]() Mopar Stage 1 | Mopar STS | BDJ's exhaust | HKS SSQ BOV | IPP CAI | ATP Upp | Autometer pillar pod with dual gauges | DC sports Strut bar | 9007 PIAA Extreme whites | Eurolite 893 Fog lights | Titan turn signals | Clear side markers | Intercooler Neon | Viper emblem | Exel Ennio wheels | MM inserts | Catch Can | Custom racing stripes |More to come. |
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| If you can get spindles and blocks for 4-450 i'd do that. You could always add the spacer later to get more lift. About the body lift, if you do it, i think a roll pan hitch will work instead of the existing one and it will be up with the bumper. You can also use a ten inch drop bumper and it will conceal the gap of the hitch with a b-lift. Get that sucker up there! Then show us some pics! |
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| im gonna wait till x-mas i think, I am moving and I might not get a transfer in my company but I will keep exploring my options and waiting on a deal to come my way. Thanks for the help fellas.
__________________ 1999 F-150 AirRaid, 4.10 gears, tint, superchip, see my gallery for more. |
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| Alright here we go... Since ive done both i can be of help. A body lift is cheap and in expensive, but JUST THAT. If i had the choice again i would have never done it. I was sweet!!!!! being that high but... the ride was rough and i am picky about cleanliness and it just wasnt easy to keep clean. Also i had to remove the pipes cause they cant be relocated without everyone being able to still see the rest of them (besides the tips. Also the frame shows and the mufflers hang down under the body of the truck and just look weird if you dont maintain them. The frame should be kept up and painted if you go this route and want a nice clean look. If you are going for offroad and dont give a shit about cleanliness... the higher the better ![]() A full suspension kit would be best and professionally installed would be better imo. yes the price will be high but you will notice virtually no difference in performance (other than stiffer shocks) and everything would be warrantied. Dont forget the warranty on the tires... its a nice deal and definately worth it!!!! Goodluck.
__________________ 2002 Mustang GT Mods: Aftermarket Tint, K&N. Air Silencer Removal, Painted Calipers, American Thunder Flowmaster Catback, Mach 1 chin spoiler. Last edited by BlckMustngGT; 07-18-2003 at 02:39 AM. |
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| well if you go the spindle/ lift blocks route you will have to get longer rear shocks. but do whatyou think is better for your needs. save up cash if you gotta. just remember to be happy with your decision.
__________________ 2003 Chevy astrovan AWD LT (Loaded Turd) 1994 Ford F150 4x4 with 4 inch lift and 35's 3RD child on the way! U.S. Army Troop "An ARMY of One" |
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| Justin, you hit it perfectly....body lifts are cheap, hard to maintain, and dont look all that great. I personally haven't had any experience with spindle lifts. Personally i think the suspension lift kit so to speak will be the best, yes more expensive, but in the long run it is worth it. Again....be happy with what you decide to do....post pics!!!!
__________________ 2000 Ranger xlt - 4x4 off road package, K&N intake, flowmaster 40 series, cranked torsion bars, autometer dual pillar pod w/ gauges. Who knows what's next...sold and replaced with 99 Jeep Wrangler 4.0 |
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